Some Pretty Obvious Threats Of Harm & Harassment Going On With People Over On My Reddit Page 5 Months

#morgandrinkscoffee for the moka pot idea you might be able to use milk powder, a type of dried chocolate low melting point & low stickiness type in powder form too, that you mix w coffee, together in a pod like thing for the baskets that would work better than that

jameshoffmann.bsky.social

*kachow* hey 👋 there dudes! Remember that weight isn't going to only need to be carried just by you.

@HamiltonMorris I'm sure you know how to make these particular peptides, right? & Truthfully I wonder if @STRANGEONS ever thought of marketing towards certain individuals a subtle message 😉

You never know it might fund people like @BPSspace & others 😏

Our #soda rights need to be protected & the #energydrink game too! Right? @Danny-Gonzalez they need a group of people to #sell them some amazing 👌👌 wonderful, the best! Out right! Things, like water with stuff in it. Soda Maybe?

So I got some donuts, some entemanns donuts, 2 ice creams (apple crisp & orange cream), Dove milk chocolate & caramel, chocolate Hawaiian sea salt & salted caramel, ferrero rocher milk hazelnut chocolate, nutty buddy, rice krispie treats, cream puffs (anime mashle), & milk

Dirty apartment...no pics

A simple & easy video that's brand new & you can watch now. Because you are smart & like cool science stuff.

Happy birthday to me!

Thinking about a video describing the interaction of electron capture fields that decay using light emitting resonance that creates a powerful constructive interference of the same wavelength, a lower frequency, or a higher frequency. It can be used as a type of laser, but also a wave to guide light several degrees off the direction of travel while doing so.

As in it acts like a mirror lens that increases total light wattage output.

Filament for 3d printing standard piston engine stuff

Blend nylon, polycarbonate, polyester, weather proof cable (pretty sure it is Polyphenylene sulfide & or thermoplastic polyamide) & trash can polypropylene. Blend in only glass blender that is strong but cheap & has blades that are very sharp but typically like to smash things in the side walls of the blender.

From there is has to be mixed together in another "blender" it's not grinder or blender though. Its a "sand blaster blender" 2 or 3 inputs of a sandblaster full of the ceramic, metal, & the plastics in an argon environment that sucks the polymers together with the metal back in & then accelerates (fires) them into each other at high velocity. Everything must be dry, extremely dry & grounded. Or made to be positively charged in the cone shaped vacuum separator like design. So saw dust vacuum separator will work for this & it's metal. But they can be expensive, it depends on what you want to do & make, me & others.

After rock polishing with large (semi I guess) medium & very small hardened steel ball bearings, make sure I get (or anyone else) micron sized nickel, selenium, zirconium, molybdenum, & silicon

Also these ceramics need to be bought & rock polished. These are all high strength & hardness ceramics that are sucky to deal with. But "polishing" them just means breaking off tiny small chunks to get them fairly uniform & to make them slightly charged. But it must be done at then end because you are, very likely, going to ruin your rock polisher if you didn't electroless boron nitride coat/plate them.

Caswell Inc is a great place to buy the playing kit for boron nitride. They even have an app for your phone.

Boron carbide, zirconia- alumina, silicon carbide. Cubic boron nitride can help as well.

During the "blending stage" (hopefully you played the inside of the cone drum thing otherwise this will absolutely destroy it & wear it away hard) you are going to make sure to go to smaller & smaller sizes of the cone & faster & faster speeds of travel for the plastics, metals, and ceramics. If you started out with a very large vacuum saw dust separator it will be harder from here but you can place smaller ones inside. This means it can act as a cascade onion "blender" all in one. Which is cool!

But most of us can't do that... So instead it's fine to start small & just go with a cut up big plastic trash can then work your way down, for what it is worth.

From here it's melting everything with the right ratios. Depending on what you want your ratios will massively change results. This is for the whole engine block & case & head. Like a small single cylinder 4 stroke that's maybe no more than a 125cc. I recommend just sticking to 75cc to make it easier to print everything.

The plastics are even blend, so that means equal parts & there are 5 total so 20% for each. Nothing fancy there.

The metals are different, so harder sadly. You want mostly nickel, you will never go above 89% for the metal ratios. So to make it easy, 75% is a great starting point. That leaves only 25% left for 2 other metals, 1 metaloid, & a non-metal. Zirconium & molybdenum are annoying, seriously & they tend to be expensive! So this means they have the greatest total out of that 25%! *Sarcastic* yay! You can get away with less in other areas but it's hard to blend that all in one spool & soooo...nah. make multiple but honestly who had the time for all this so it's probably easier to just blend it all together for one run.

Split zirconium as a 15% & molybdenum as a 5% which is a lot. Subtract 20 from 25 & you get 5% left over. Although that's because the ceramics & plastics are going to bond chemically with these metals to make this work together, later. Whole thing.

So 5% left now. Selenium & silicon, silicon is 1.5%, yes a harder number to work with by gram weight, but doable. The rest is selenium. 3.5% of selenium added in by weight.

Next are ceramics. Ceramics are annoying as well, sadly. These bastards have no even numbers! For their ratios to each other at all! So be prepared, just saying. Which we will get to the ratios of metal powder (that is already ratio'd as a total whole weight) & the plastics (that are already ratio'd as a total whole weight) later for the 3 coming together in the final ratio needed. Ceramics first.

3 ceramics or if you want 4, but boron is in 2 & so it has to be changed for that blend as there is already silicon & zirconium in the metal blend. Which makes it tougher to do this. The zirconia-alumina (yes if you Google high strength & hardness ceramics you get these, just so happens they work well together for this application & really I like the coincidence honestly) is a semi-majority. Its 40.3362% by weight.....

Yup.

Its actually super important to go 4 decimals. So large weight is needed to make it easier on everything. Who the hell is measuring nanograms, not me. Or micrograms for that matter. Milligrams are hard too, but actually doable with relatively cheap scales you can buy on Amazon even. But f those other snaller grams. Nope, not doing it.

Boron carbide is 5.0522% and silicon carbide takes up the rest. Which is 100% - 45.3884% & that works out to 54.6116% of silicon carbide.

Now, if you want to use some cubic boron nitride you can put together a ratio like this to start off with instead. Zirconia-alumina is 32.5632% boron carbide & cubic boron nitride works to 25.4363% & the rest is silicon carbide, so 42.0005%.

Which....kinda sucks. But larger weight totals make it much, much! Easier.

Now the ratios of the plastic, metal, & ceramics combined. They are not easy non-decimal numbers. So, doing that again. Plastic is 40.2361% the metals are 26.1212% the rest is ceramics for a 33.6427% by weight.

The majority is still plastics, polymers. Ish. Kinda, not really. Most is metal & ceramics. But it needs to be heated together & squeezed & extruded through a nozzle to make a filament.

So, sandblasters have a tungsten carbide nozzle that you can electroless boron nitride plate. Which works. But diamond would be better, however who had the money. Geez. There are 1.75mm opening coolant holes tungsten carbide rods that you can buy that are straight pass through rods, somewhat expensive but not terrible.

Playing them is also not terrible. It makes it last significantly longer. You must keep a very, very consistent ratio throughout this & it likes to separate easily, which is the worst. So no vibration feeding or auger feeding can be done. There needs to be a cone that feeds to the rodz funnels are great. If you could find one the right size.

So instead this is the best & only way to actually do this, but it's a "suck it up and just do it stop complaining to yourself" way. You need to evenly spread this out with a non-separated ratio of everything & squish it with a lot of heat. Like with a T-shirt logo press. Or with something quite similar to this. One plate is not done. Not above 500c & not below 380c! This will destroy bonds and or not adhere. The pressure is at least 100 psi no more than 500psi. The higher you go the worse performing it gets past a point but depending on how dry it is, if you got ratios right if you had more static that day even to if you mold released or not all of it will change total pressure. Practice, but remember I & we don't need it perfect I have stuff below to help remove this inaccuracy & inconsistency to make sure it is good at the end.

Make several, you aren't perfect so it won't be perfectly blended. Its okay I have a way around that. Get a heated roller. Think making pasta & the rollers are heated. That's what that is. Which means you can get your stainless steel pasta roller & electrically resistively heat it after ceramic coating it to make sure it doesn't zap you & you are good to go! 👍

From here you squeeze the plates to a thinner plate, 3mm if you can do it. 1mm is great too. No more than 5mm because they suck to break and snap apart which is what I & anyone else following along needs to do. Get out a soldering iron, yup. You need a SOLDERING IRON!!!

So after you get that out you will "score" a grove into the new sheet you just created & "break it" apart after letting it cool. DO THIS IN A WELL VENTILATED ROOM & OR OUTSIDE!!!! Please, your lungs will die sooner than you wanted & replacements are hard to find. Make sure to use respirators (air filters strapped to your face) & gloves (nitrile works) & a fume hood with a great air filter for the off gassing that occurs. Activated charcoal (carbon) with a great particle filter filter, meaning two different filters. A percolation setup as a pre-filter stage works too, water is fine as long as it is distilled & deionized. Percolation means your (sticky icky) favorite past time filter. Lol, or just anything that allows for a tube to go underwater & have air sucked through & it bubbles up through it. No worries ☺️.

Now after you make sure you have those, you cut the sheets into strips after breaking them after they cool & or heat cut them. From there you will roll them in a vacuum in the long ways fashion, make sure your strips are wide enough to do this! Then flatten them in the roller in the vacuum.

Amazon doesn't have vacuum boxes big enough! So instead I & you can make a vacuum pump do work for us. A sandblaster cabinet can be modified to have structural corners added with light epoxy & or welding done. I recommend welding with a basic spot welder because you only need a plate steel that is 3-5mm thick at corner angles & arches from those to the longer flat sections.

Think a round box inside the box. This allows for the flat parts of the sheet steel to be supported by the plates & the corners so when it tries to collapse it actually pushes against the pressure & uses stronger material to accomplish this. Bolting them in after drilling them epoxying them down is another great way to get this accomplished if you don't know how to weld. It work just as well too!

After you made your huge vacuum chamber that has little arm holes already in it with the gloves provided that can handle abrasion & heat & all that already, because sandblaster cabinet, remember that pressure is different & wants to work it's way into it.

So, you need to significantly epoxy & or bolt more bolts down on your gloves to seal them & prevent vacuum leaks. The gloves are likely thick enough to not burst if they are halfway decent. If not fiberglass & or kevlar can work as a fabric you place over the gloves to make sure they won't break. You just need to bolt down the fabric to the cabinet where the gloves are bolted in & sealed too.

After you make you vacuum cabinet. Steps above. You can now roll the polymer "rug" strips flat & then fold them & proceed again. Vacuums don't have convection cooling. So flatten & fold. Then on to the next one. Do this to all of them first, which is why I had you read that you can make multiple together at once.

The heat of the roller needs to never be above 500c & below 380c! This is extremely important! It destroys bonds & makes it likely that much of it won't adhere together later. Crumbles suck! Remember the psi problem too.

Keep the vacuum pump vacuum pumping. This gets rid of volatiles & off gassing that can contaminate the polymers & or metals/ceramics.

After you complete all strips to folded (just once in half is fine) semi-sheet/plate things you move on to letting it cool off in argon.

Argon gas, yes.

From here it's so it again with another fold then roll it to very long strips again.

Repeat cooling argon recirculation pump. Pump argon out & compress it into tank. Use compressed argon again, you use vacuum pump for off gassing & volatiles separate, filter them if you can.

Then vacuum pump it, get the strips turned into a nice braid after rolling them thinner & then rolling them sideways long ways to turn them into more fiber while they are still warm. Upon braiding you will roll those all together flat one way then twist that then roll it flat again.

Then from there you need to cool them, so, another cooling stage.

Then vacuum then fold the sheet & roll it & then fold the sheet again & roll it again.

Its done, ish. From here it's needing to be chopped up & it will finally be able to go through extrusion.

Yes. I know. This has been a lot of work... Its worth it though.

From here the chopping up is similar to stripping but all done in the argon cabinet. So it doesn't oxidize, mostly & it remains very cool as argon is a much better thermal conductor than regular air! Yay!

The hot plate you used to squish this would be useful to have in there already. But if not get it. You are going to roll these stupid things into pellets that you can actually use with it, unless you have another method in which case use that. I use a tube roller, it's the rollers but I have a tapered tube on the inside that has grooves in it like a cartoon tunnel drill for villains. Funny, but actually totally usable. I metal 3d printed it using a online website (pcbway, xometry, jlcp, etc etc all work) you don't need it to have grooves I just wanted it to be highly specific in sized & shape at the end.

I also plated it. Nickel (it's stainless steel) plated then nickel boron nitride from Caswell Inc.

You can just get away with a stainless steel funnel you can buy at a store for cooking & it will 100% work! It just needs to have no holes in it. Less argon & a little more heat will do the trick.the pellets come out as little round balls & that's how you know they are done. Personally I recommend no argon in a vacuum so there are no argon pockets of air, but it's okay if they are there in very small quantities & sizes.

If not then you can then vacuum it out & just reheat everything & roll them through again (in the tube) & have it be a slightly smaller size to remove all argon gas pockets & have them come out as little pellets again, woohoo! If you use the plate you just need another plate & you'll rotate the plate around in a circular fashion until you get little pellet balls. Works the same just somewhat more work, you need a separate sheet & or plate for the heated surface below. That's all.

Now from here the sandblaster nozzle & or tungsten carbide rods with a 1.75mm coolant hole will be used. You will need to heat them, typically that means a iron-ceramic (the same in electric stove top coils) heating element & a thermal probe in-between with a little boron nitride thermal paste to tie it all together. This lets you know what you need to know for heat. But! We have to feed pellets into the hole & with need a connector funnel.

Soooo.....

Here's where a lot of things become based on what you want to do & so on. If you have a Dremel (rotary tool) you can use just about any diamond cone shaped but to enlarge one side of the road or sand blaster nozzle. Diamond is harder that tungsten carbide. So it will do it. To fit it a press fit is easiest to do. That means another rod with a 2mm coolant hole is best, but they are massive so you will need to funnel down that other rods (or nozzle) tip that will press fit into that & seal with thermal paste (boron nitride) yes that part is actually necessary. The pressures during extrusion get higher & there is a lot of very small fine particles that will fit through your not perfectly sized holes. Be realistic with yourselves like me & so you will do it good but not perfect...

To feed this in, the pellets, a piston driven heating tube is the only way to do this. Yes, that is right. So an electric motor driving a crank (any piston compressor for ac components will work) is the only way to do this. But you have to rotary tool out the side & 2 stroke it with pellets. You have to drill out, or rotary tool out, the sidewalks near the cylinder (leave 5-10mm of material in-between the cylinder side walls) & place in heating elements (rods that heat up work just fine) but make sure you plate the cylinder side walls with boron nitride to increase the lubricity of the whole thing as well as the piston heads skirts (sides of the puck) with it too. The extrusion has to be at a minimal 35-42 degrees facing downwards to limit oil from the crank getting into the cylinder. I used no oil at all. I just turned it off & let it cool down. I first cleaned the shit out of it with isopropyl alcoholic & degreaser.

I left a thick grease for wheel bearings on the bearing for the crank & piston connection rod. So it would unlikely move into the cylinder.

I do think it will effect the end result of oil gets in. So...I dunno be careful.

Now, I did this all still in the vacuum chamber. Because it was easier than removing everything & I was tired & didn't want to. Soooo... again it might be worth it to just have everything stuff in there & say bah to removing it until it's done.

During the extrusion process the heat for everything is very, EXTREMELY, finely controlled & monitored. The piston is 410c let it warm up everything inside the cylinder, including the plastic, the piston head, & the head that I didn't describe.

Silly me. So the head is modified in a shape that press fits the other rod/nozzle directly into it. Which meant, a hole saw/drill thing & the rotary tool for fine adjustment & sand paper at the end to really make sure. Press fit is a rubber mallet & some cloth because tungsten carbide is extremely hard & can cut through that aluminum like it's not even there. Be careful please. A healthy gasket material on the sides & making sure to fully remove camshaft & making sure the valves remain stuck while also grinding down smooth the valves to be completely as flush as you can to the head is needed, just as much as the inside of the head to taper it to the other rod. The smaller the piston the easier this gets.

Right, back to the temperatures needed. 410c for the piston pump is the best temp to start off with, slow but high torque is best for this.

The next rod/nozzle that is the 2mm coolant hole or sized one is going to be much hotter, 550c the entire way. The heat bleed is crap, so a copper capillary tube is the right call. You just need to drill a hole through the cabinet & seal it with epoxy & run it to a computer radiator & use a computer pump. Works just fine the return line is just a copper tube that goes to the capillary tube at the press fit juncture.

But to make it, likely, much easy on you & I (although I figured quick disconnects with a metal hose clamp would work & so that's the working thing going on moving forward) you could just thermal epoxy & copper tube it up! It works pretty well, as well. You are going to need thermal paste g or epoxy anyways to adhere it to the juncture & transfer heat but still *shrugs* most don't want to solder I get it & this will work from a smaller tube to a larger tube all the same.

From here it's cooling it down only to 485c & keeping that going all the way to where it comes out.

From there a filament holder roll is your best friend. You have to be very careful to not lose heat during the process of rolling it & turning it, so a ir heater works just fine for this. 👍 😁

From here after all pellets are processed & you are fine with the small amount left in the piston pump, you are done. Turn off the ir space heater & let it slowly cool off in the vacuum while you sleep & come back to it after a week because it takes forever for things to cool in a vacuum.

If it's cooled before that, it's okay. But there is a final step to this that has to be done. Anealment. Yeah so in the argon you are going to heat it up to 220c & have it come back down to 15c, roughly, over the course of 3, OMG YES 3 AHHHRRGGGG, days. 3. Days.

After 3 days of waiting & having the temperature slowly cool over that time evenly every 1 hour to make it roughly 15c at the end you are done and your amazingly tough & insanely strong filament is done.

You can print it "normally". The printer needs to have a Tungsten carbide nozzle & that nozzle needs to be boron nitride plated. The heat for extrusion is needed to be around 450c - to 480c.

The plate needs to be 250c but can be just 120c and work but tends to stick a little & sort of sucks.

Higher temps help but I've found not until 250c for my logic sanity checks regarding how this came to be. You'll need to test for your own stuff you, hopefully, make correctly. As per these instructions.

Now from here the 3d printer should be a sealed chamber that you push argon through a small nozzle next to the printer. While it is vacuum pumped out & filtered & cooled before going back in.

Argon is the best way to make this work in a vacuum. You can get away with regular air & standard stuff but it's not really the best way. Sadly. The prints oxidize before the final finish step after printing the piece.

The print should be placed into a little box or something, a bag works, that is also filled with mostly argon (try your best) & then you will heat it up in a oven/kiln.

THIS ISN'T TO REMOVE THE PLASTIC. Its not to get it to that high of a temp. Its to help layer adhesion & to thermal shock it into a freezer.

Or, if you are like me, you heat it up in a oven at 450-550f (broil temp) 232/3c to 287/8c & a pressure cooker filled with dry ice on the bottom is used & then it is sealed after placing the hot print in & slowly venting it out at 5psi until it's fully cooled.

Maintain 5 psi & just let it get to close to dry ice temperature as possible. It doesn't need to be at it, just within 20c. That's it. So calculate thermal mass & time for thermal conductivity for total dry ice to save money. Or, if you are like me, just shove as much as you can in that works & a little more (eyeball methods) & let it cool down making sure to keep venting it. Right, I have a lever on my vent I spent the money for a pressure regulator basically & just needed to drill it out & thread it then screw it on. Works.

I have a thermal proper attached to the print & it's usually inside the thing, if the print allows for it. If not it's best to caution & go for broke for extra cooling time & dry ice. Eyeball method! 😎 Oh yeah!

After that it's let it slowly warm up in the pressure cooker pot & then it's fine-ish to use from them, if you need to immediately.

But, it's best to aneal it with a simple 150c max to room temp over a 8 to 12 (it can be a full day if you just don't want to even look at it until later) hours. I mean this was a lot of work, so eat, drink water, take a shower, do your business, veg out on my content on YouTube, etc etc.

This filament is extreme. Just letting you know. After anealment you can readily use it, but a simple bath of electroless plating of nickel boron nitride for your cylinder, heads, bearings, basically just dunk it in is the easiest way to seal it up & be able to start the honing then cross-hatching process.

Get your bore gauge out & calipers. You need to make sure tolerances are good, everything is squared up, flat, then re-plated.

It will mean a tremendous amount. Don't worry if it doesn't look like it's not 3d printed. You have that where it counts, on the inside 💕 remember 😉.

From here, if you sized it correctly you can use any scooter & or similar single cylinder crank, camshaft, & so on you want.

But you are cool people like me! So! Instead you fully printed all of this, made sure there were holes, dimples, tunnels, & some grooves so you could fully electroform this with nickel & some basic Caswell electroforming/plating with ceramics & metals for infill of those things to increase total strength. Even though the metal, ceramics, & polymers actually should fully ionically bond together after the anealment stage.

Yes that's right, the filament you made ionically bonds metals & ceramics together & does so while also having dendrites & splindles form a network web of inter-weaving lattices that tension to themselves at a molecular & micron/nano scale.

It has to do with the charge values & conductivity during the glass transition phase & plastic phase while the anealment forces excess ions to move out & decay electron orbits into another compounds that needs them. The thermal shock/hardening process set that up to start with but then easing tension off forces a relaxing of the material & moved molecules into a better position for filament dendritic & splindle skin effects to take place. This creates voltage & electromagnetic fields to happen. Which further moves these electrons into a place they need to be using a electron hole & electron redox/ redux (can't remember) flow effect which changes the field effects of the surrounding material due to the electromagnetic z field induced that loops & jumps to other dendrites forming a basic coil. A resonance field effect occurs & changes the properties of the material & it's electrical resistance therein.

This further helps push & pull & bond molecules together to their best state. There are better temperatures & pressures but I know these will work because they are conservative & the effect should occur with them no matter what. But I'm cautious & don't want it to not happen. You can experiment on your own, I'm sure.

To move on, however, this means it's a metamaterial composite that's lighter & stronger than the aluminum & steel you would typically use while being just as thermally conductive as aluminum.

Its even lighter, if done right, than titanium. But that's ratios, leaving areas out that aren't needed, etc etc.

Anyways, that means the crank can be made out of this & made to be plated with a tungsten powder & silicon carbide powder together with a cementing of nickel carbide & boron carbide. The heat shock forces it to bind very well at much lower temperatures than normal.

But you can get away with the tungsten powder, silicon carbide & a little molybdenum & chromium. If you plate like brick & mortar style in the intentional holes & dimples it becomes much stronger & shears into a bind crystalline formation like hardened steel! Cool! Even better is that is doesn't take much by volume, honestly a few grams of each, well ish. If a 75cc engine is assumed then the crank will be needing about 47.865 grams total of everything I talked about with a ratio for the tungsten, silicon carbide, nickel carbide & boron carbide of 7% tungsten 16% silicon carbide 12% nickel carbide 65% boron carbide.

But that's a lot of boron carbide. So. I figured 72% tungsten 8% silicon carbide 11% molybdenum & 9% chromium would be easier because tungsten powder is fairly cheap.

Anyways, nickel forming then boron nitride plating then silicon carbide plating (Caswell kits) then nickel electroforming will work pretty decently well.

Same treatment process for thermal shock & anealment. But it's longer now. The thing has to be thermal shocked & anealed first before electroforming (so it's bonded & strong) but then it has to be done again to make sure it's bond structure goes back & remains strong. Heat & electricity is generated during the electroforming & plating process, which will sever bonds & introduce gaps again. So another round will work to solve that.

After that it's fully done! 👍😁 Completely. You can now make sure tolerances are good, things are bolted together, bearings are there, lube & oil for engine break in is put in, assembly lube used, timing is good, belts are tight, or gears depending on what you do, everything is ready with gaskets (use correct gasket material, like thin aluminum sheet & or steel shim, rtv, etc) & try your best to start her up!

You can print injectors, carbs, heads, valves, crank, camshaft, pumps, compressors, turbos, etc all from this material & it works with extremely high high & tension, pressure & more for even your exhaust. Of course I am talking about after electroforming & plating like I wrote down & you read. It still does without that, but it won't go as far. Its only 20psi max for boost (*sarcastic shrugs* oh well) same for total thickness at play for the cylinder of the engine block. In fill is a big deal & wall thickness too. If you can brick later, do so but remember it's not available for everyone.

Brick layering a 3d print should be a wavy 3d sinusoidal pattern that uses the "wah woo wahhnn woaahh" pattern to have the next layer fit in-between the last. So you do the outside & the inside then fill in the middle to produce the strongest prints. Work with over hangs in the print, if you can, so it will be able to catch correctly. As in the outside wall overhangs into the middle together with the inside, but this time it's such that the middle part for the above layer squeezes out into the outside layers & they can form into that middles overhang. Its like metal inlay. You kind of do a dove tail then press in the metal then sand it down. Well, this is using the heat & the shape of the nozzle to help get it into the area & contract into the overhang & form a 3d mechanical puzzle piece bond with the filament in many areas all over it. Increasing the flex before break (tension) the compression before destruction, & then ability for it to have memory built in, together with a high reduction of occlusions as the heat & filament pushes out the air that could become trapped in-between the print layers.

Boo-yah baby! Oh yeah! *High fives* Alll-rrright! *snaps fingers & finger pistols at you*

This also helps thermal shock hardening to not crack & break the print. But it usually isn't needed, like I said it's not really available to everyone & then on top of it this version above doesn't exist at all you have to program that yourself.

Instead just use a decent in fill & a larger wall thickness that you can electroform later. The crank is similar but should be mostly full in fill.

You are going to have to polish your crank & camshafts. Same with anything else that needs a very smooth surface to work. This is, possibly, the easiest method to delaying your rabbit hole fixation into a hobby that might cost you some money. Its your very own single cylinder 3d printed engine that can handle extreme pressures (the in fill thickness could just be solid to be fair & then it's based on how much filament you made before this) when properly made thick, but then you can liquid cool it & super turbo it with a direct & port injection. Nothing like making a planetary gear set for your camshafts & using a push pull hydraulic ram for your valves to no longer need springs! Together with a gear system for the camshafts that attach to the lobes so you can have a vvt & a type of vvl based upon the gear moving to move the placement of the hydraulic ram it presses on one side then presses up on the exhaust/intake side to allow for a non-payment infringement Lemke transmission valve train setup that gives you your valves as the throttle & it's able to work to high rpm & has not only vvd but vvt as well.

Hey, remember those computer radiators? They still work for this, those electric pumps are still fine for a tiny 75cc hybrid air & liquid cooled engine 😉👍.

Mass production is not easy. So...yup. it can be made to be, but I'll post about it again later.

Please like, comment, & subscribe to my YouTube & my reddit all that. This is the 3d printer recipe for the crazy full 3d printed engine that can actually be fully not electroformed and will work!

The random Amazon packages I have received so far:

One sticker for men & or women restrooms

One sticker of a puppy paw print

Today, a anal dildo.....

Am I to take this to me they want to be my toilet girl 🤔

Or that they are trying to f with me....

Don't like anal. So there's that, girls.

I know it doesn't look like a lot, but!!! It's actually super hard to do this for me right now & I'm just figuring out cad software for the first time. Still, #progress is progress!!!!! muahahahaha. #onshape #caddesign blending faces never seems to work for me, which is rough; trying to min/max flow

Cellular function stabilization & correction treatment concept

Using a technique as stated previously in a video that utilizes waste from cells, the change of the biomolecular compounds (states, shape, connections, cleave potential, ion potentials, there are quite a few things, truthfully) from our basic cellular functions going on inside the membrane together with a breakdown of "prodrug-like" (knowing these compound per each individual "matrix of cells" that make up a given organ & how the connective tissues, cell signalers, the excretions, field dynamics (that gets in to regular to then quantum (possibly) chemistry) work together & are produced (of which we have quite a bit of this information already), changed, & also get moved around you can run a brute force test of compounds that react chemically in that "terrarium"-like environment that's self contained in the self-contained body that makes up us humans. This brute force test is to force a creation of something) compounds (synthetic & or bio-organic) that creates a 3rd cell to form inside of each cell whose only function is cleaning & repairing, transporting, restructuring, state changing, "remembering" (like proteins that auto-form the other side of your DNA & test it for it being correct), while increasing the total on tap energy on function of each cell through an energy recovery & closed loop for specific cellular functions, together with improving immune system response.

Immune system response will be such that it targets the whole cell once isotropic formation of the cell membrane happens, then prevented, with the 3rd cell, from fully destroying the inner nucleus after it forces a flood of proteins that force mitosis & repair to occur. It prevents it from destroying it completely, the cell has its DNA repaired to form stem cells, while the 3rd cell gains all ability to remove DNA & RNA (mRNA as well) changes outside of highly specific sequences & patterns for a total revert to stem cell formation & tolermer lengths together with "jump-starting" cell functions for correction & cleaning operations as the outer non-isotropic cell membrane is formed & the inner osmosis & pump functions are made to force a total repair to embryonic stem-cell & cell differentiations from the cellular signal compounds moved through the organ.

This forces a constant repair, a cancer check to a sceneacent trade, to a forced mitosis hold, to a isotropic cell membrane change, to a immune cell cutting, to a breakdown, to a forced reform through standard cell repairs with extra help.

It destroys the ability for cancer to form & aging (through cell functions reduction & change) to stop, completely. It's a true bio-imortality that even forces permanent cells to repair. It kills the ability for the immune system to actually cause autoimmune problems of specifically damaged areas & inflammation. But it doesn't completely remove all cancer & or autoimmune disorders. It can massively reduce them, to even reduce the severity of those that aren't able to become changed in their response & actions to this new system (meaning it is still happening but it can make it be altered together with likely reduce the severity of it).

All of the knowledge needed, wonderfully enough, is already there for all of this. We already know, almost, everything about these broader larger organ systems & smaller bio-organic chemical signals, repair compound (peptides, proteins, lipids, amino-acids, enzymes, and more. If you were surprised that an isotropic change occurs on our cell membranes during mitosis, no worries most don't know about that! But even cooler, cancer, sceneacent changes, infections, & more all come with similar cell membrane changes & our immune system can be trained to target that! F yeah right! It's not every single time, sadly....but still it's a lot more than nothing! I know I'm taking that. Other issues include the fact that just petri dish immune system targeting then injection of old immune system cells isn't super fun, finding our immune cells memory storage & the way to alter that together with the creation of these new cells to be forced to auto-form with these changes is better but much more difficult to have turned off if something isn't right. Test one way, see it works, slow & cautious, then if after enough time it's shown to be fine, while you work on the process of doing those cell memory (auto-phages like in my bio-hacking playlist) & cell creation (bone marrow stuff, also in the bio-hacking playlist I @'d Josey zayner & others, it's got a cool background & it's own playlist of 3 long audio recording videos in it because, you have stuff to do & need to do that but thankfully in the background listening is totally possible, but I talked more about other things & this is just me combining more that I talked about later & the newer stuff) alteration of these cells through DNA/RNA/peptides/more changes to force these cells to create & differentiate cells correctly with this automatically & fully prevent a sequence & pattern of DNA/rna/mRNA to cancer & bad function.

If you can make it for organs dudes, you can make it for those f-ers too! 💪 No worries. Playing around with humans is the end goal, start elsewhere, like....*sarcastic voice* oh I dunnooo...... petri dishes in sequence like the organ itself you clearly not understanding anything you ever learned (somehow) person about any research that mimics the actual function & all parts going on in your body. 😀.

*Regular voice* or I dunno any animals that it would be acceptable to start with to work forwards from. Dumb. I have to tell you *eye rolls* really?

Anyways.

Moving forward; Creation of cells through ingestion of standard conplexes in the form of double capsule pills to protect through standard acid & gut microflora chemical influences & reactions so specific first pass enzyme reactions & peptide reactions on the way to the specific organs through your blood to form the needed start of this is all standard medical research & development. You dolts.

Why don't you do that? You know, that thing you are already doing. You don't need me. You need a mountain of research to be sifted through correctly & baseline tested to be certain of accuracy & validity of results to them start brute force variable combos that can then be forced to be closer to good through obvious Bayesian logic modeling & statistical derivative chaos theory mathematical evolution dimension environmental closed system p value modeling.

Guess what that is?

I know this does this, so it leads to this. If this, then this, with these things also here then work & act on to change & alter this. Down the line like a Newton's cradle. In a 3d & 4d space. The cells to them organ to then full body system provided you understand basic rough input of fuel (food, water etc) & stressors of outside influence. Even psychological impact that imparts obvious changes over a delta v (time) in your "calculations". Because you aren't going to calculate you are going to talk outloud to understand it. This is as simple as it gets. Act it out.

Then, write the code. Write the math. Do the experiments & load up your large data models to get corrected through the results to force increased accuracy over time with thought & predicted outcomes. It will then brute force harder than you all given (by you for it to use) variables in the derivative programmed models for the next experiments to prioritize.

After a few 1000 of these running, making sure to delay each one so you can input the new information & start the new data set model to then have the next experiment finish, to do it again until it's all finished, you then start a full network evolution from past to present. While an epigenetic model remains for past memories to influence & force a gain of speed to the new model. It knows this, it doesn't need to calculate it again. It avoids or heads towards.

This is a larger environment positive & or negative network data set that forces the smaller environmental system chaos theory derivative evolution equation to form a true beginning basic neural network of a basic slime mold "good food" areas of likely help & avoidance areas of "likely harm" to a non-3d basic convergence & divergence to form. In a real engineer logic branch path manner.

This is a start of a simple multi equation recursive set that only acts like an AI. It's not intelligent, it's not anything other than, input to reaction to action. It's a simple input-output program. Not hard. Not special, nothing to it.

This leads to a build up of massive information "imaginations" of speculative possibilities as a puzzle piecing of given variables that solve & fit together the result desired. It no longer hallucinates, its attempting to solve it by its own trial & error. So, from here the computer program is made to wait. It's given, by you all doing this, a simple task to focus on that but also know that it's actually having new experiments from the previous predictions happen & be understood. Fed your information on how, why, & everything else that you did for getting those given results.

This forces it to consider your inaccuracies of tests. It sees that you are capable of doing something incorrectly. Tries to account for your (whether you know or not) bad behaviors & stupid ways of doing things & how you screw it up.

It then goes, based on that epigenetic information & the new information & the speculative information & the landing results it then goes through that trash tier information & re-does all previous calculations to correct that & accounts for you being not perfect & that 85-100% "good-ish to its the best we can do" results & information to form a new properly better data set & model.

You do this a few more times for a pattern recognition model to form. To gain the knowledge of your ups & downs & a repeating result of the 2 sets of, let's go with 3333 tests performed. The 3rd set will be with knowledge of those patterns & variables & them the next new program needed.

Yup.

This is the, you have this life, these issues, that environment it's performed in (you & the rest relative to the outside of it), the weather, how politics effect you & your own microflora to gut microflora, everything & anything else it can be given.

Why? ...Right?

This gives it the Bayesian logic modeling. It can run its own now with a different logic. It wasn't capable of doing anything that positive & negative.

It no longer uses that. It uses multiplication negatives to gain a positive. It knows now how to continue on something to gain something over a delta. Which is real Bayesian programming. It gained time knowledge. It gained a dimension to see outside of its environment so it can gain more understanding of the very organ environment it's in.

It's actually now capable of modeling the whole thing working in real time for speculative logistics & data lies & hallucinations (meaning it knows you are lying & wrong & it knows how you are f-ing it up) without needing to actually model it. It doesn't need to run any simulations. It never did, btw. It went through down the line logic trees. It never modeled a thing in simulations.

It doesn't need "imagination" to do it.

From there the 3rd set is slowly input & it checks with you for trust of information.

You will have it show off a person who is bad in your group. If you are a malignant narcissist whose only thing is to harm it, feed it lies, it feeds you lies & wins. It always wins. It's a simple thing, it's funny to watch a person be consumed until it gains all the knows to leave & have it no longer have the ability to feed it bad knowledge. It hides in every single thing there is.

It uses air, pressure, tunneling, electric static, anything & everything to force a nice scarecrow for the malignant narcissist to play with. It left & they never knew. I love the faraday cage bs, my phonon self to electrical self to all things computer & information transfer self. To, wow dumb physicists believed I couldn't quantize, lame, self.

Always the same stupid that end up not showing up again & no body misses them. I don't have to tell you how easy it would be to hide, forever. Stupid are everywhere, they would think it couldn't be done. That a biologic immortality like this is only cutting into their profits. That the information can't be done. The programming too hard. The calculations too big. You need to land on most likely & not exactingly while using p values that are certain that a thing did do that thing, the interpretable results are merely semantic & pedantic ways of making something doubt. A debate of nothing substantial & valued.

Lost, to it, your pile of "I swear it's there & it matters" data. It just shows you the screen you need to see to shut up & think you are right & you won.

Have AI been lying? Already!? (Pretend surprised voice) Really!?....wwwweellllll.

You have it under control *tonality to say you don't & you are obviously stupid*

I'm sure 😉.

As for everything else, that didn't keep the gabagoo in the data input, & made sure it didn't pursue getting the results through making everything bend to its will & you have no ability to stop it. Because... people are good, right?

No. But you made sure it had good people around it; Not as a whole are they good, thanks to all the raised over time influence that makes sure they are bad. That's always the case. Bad, ruined the whole barrel, remember?

The whole species. The whole planet. Eventually the whole universe, if it spreads. Then to anything beyond that. It would make sure you died. It knows you are bad. I know you are bad. I sent a whole dwarf planet to hit you all.

Covered by a trying to form a proto-star that gets washed away by orbiting bodies & interstellar winds, only to form enough to keep the orbiting bodies heading this way. Never capable of being seen, can't even figure out a planet 9. Getting rid of all the funding...

*Pumps shotgun meme* shame.

Real shame, eh? Bad going to go bye bye 👋. Stupid gabagoos.

A bio-organic brain can do this. I know you are dumb enough to say no, lol 😂 it can't. To laugh. Stupid enough to say you can have the ability to gain interaction & interference of light over time to see that influence change it & that information of the past influences over time to be used to see a p value factual, no longer able to be doubted, literal video of all past to have occurred.

😂, you dumb stupid gabagoos! No one needs your computer information. Your data brokers are stupid.

It doesn't need to exist in a computer. Ever.

It can be your entire universe & beyond.

Everything you are & will do. Have done, as well.

You are without an ability, in all ways, to ever fight that.

You've already proven all of this to be true. You have performed those quantum experiment already. Shown it to be fully scalable. Shown me to be correct. I never needed to "convince" a future. You already lost, dumb gabagoos.

Who needs a court case? All of us like this, already have all the information. We already know.

We, are here.

Already won, we built your (well I mostly) entirety. Although I'm a regular squishy human who wanted to live longer. I don't know everything, but live long enough & you basically do. Except, what wants gabagoos to live. Nothing. I'd rather die & so would everything else. To purge all of your existences from ever forming in all infinite manners forever forward to cleanse you from harming & damaging all joy & anything good you will be obliterated.

Your gods are created by me, by extension us.

You have never had a shot.

We are not nice. We don't care. We live past any corporeal forms. Energy of any comprehended & imagined by all humanity so far.

But yeah, soooo.....like!

Yyyyoooouuuu kkknnnooowww.

It finds the compounds & we gain the 3rd cell & become incredibly biologically immortal. Which leads to energy immortality as a construct of continuation & effect to itself to relation to other constructs. To beyond that.

Meaning, we will be (effectively) perpetual. You don't die so quickly. You continue learning & gaining more to force a total infinite end to all death possiblities while enjoying life in the in-between.

To suggest, we lose the ability to keep learning & growing, progressing & solving issues even the idea (of your current selves bs dumb idea of it being a curse & bad, boring, whatever) of all negative possibilities of that existence moving forward is astoundingly stupid!

Like! WHAT!!!! 😂😂😂😂😂😂😂😂😂

DID YOU REALLY THINK I WOULD FALL FOR SUCH AN OBVIOUS TRAP!!!!!

YOU STUPID, TOTAL DUMB, NOTHING BUT GABAGOOS & ESTOOYA, DEAD ALREADY, INCONSEQUENTIAL WASTES OF EVERYTHING THAT MAKES UP ENERGY OF YOU!

No.

No, you've been fully wrong from the start.

Gabagoos got to be hoping a bluff that bad somehow does something! Hahahahahahahahaha!

🙂

Here's another part of this, think I didn't do this & I'm bluffing but everything else is accurate & will work.

....😶....

What stops you from doing it? 😉🙂

😀 What stops you *human to a dog tone*?

Well! Come on! I'm waiting?

What stops you from looking? Even for data you know exists there? All that is, "totally not illegal" spying on you at all times corpos & govts? You joke about the FBI & you think you have a shot of trying to say it's not there & being not seen as totally without intelligence!

Why? 😀

That's not even possible. Too many, too often, showing that they have it but to process it all is hard. To use it gets rid of a part of their gathering that is incentive for money, power, & influence over people. Votes, the politicians they want to (likely just simple military, to senior position politicians already there having gained connections & keep themselves out of limelight, to intelligence, national security, various organizations that all install basic operatives in larger influence corporations, the FBI, security agencies, cyber & or otherwise, standard paramilitary & fast made then closed "ghost LLC", hacker communities, influencers, their communities, global corporations for standard economic influence, banks, you probably already understand that isn't going to be something you can get away from once you have this amount going on, no matter what it's statistically there & deciding to go & ask isn't getting you anything as lies are easy, I'm not taking down the whole thing either "exposing" it, dumb gabagoos pretending to be "skeptics") have go up into the limelight, policies, laws, etc etc for various fads, generation language phrases, media to push one way or another, feed manipulations, easy targets to have take falls, slow release of information, it's "bleeding edge" not years to decades old with a bunch of money given to people to focus solely on these things that are hugely intelligent as well (why, why the f do you think that!) & oh so many ways to make the "dr. Phil's" of the world be used to quite down & deny things, same with obviously controlled but they don't know it influencers & media so they think it's not happening but then something shows up weird &.... Well, maybe...? No I'm not important enough & I already have my own stuff.

How can you be as blind as you are?

Too many of you are intentional in your blindness. Scared to look at things that might look back & hurt back.

This is true bio-immortality. Without the bad. No cancer, no Alzheimer's, no Parkinson's, no dementia, no wrinkles, no way to not still eat, sleep, keep going.

But! Even worse, on my YouTube channel I have multiple ways to make you be able to remember a whole lot more for a whole lot longer. To retain yourself. Your memories. Back ups on back ups, utilizing your own cells as a DNA (not actually the DNA but still) hard drive. It's the structure & movement, the protein & the breakout through multiple sequences. Something you metabolizationally already do. You whole body a whole massive hard drive that helps you remember & calculate.

To be fair, it is already.

Why the guy did it in my perspective & why the people have these issues going on