Not only that, but carbon dioxide as well!
• To grow upside down tomatoes, you would need to use a container.Space for a garden outdoors is not required when growing tomatoes using this method.You wouldn’t need a huge space wherein your growing tomatoes will receive their required daily dose of six to eight hours of sunlight.The plants can easily be relocated to help them get sun exposure because they are in containers.
• Growing tomatoes upside down will require no more staking. As tomatoes grow heavier, they look for an erect object to lean on.However, because they are upside down, they will naturally grow straight due to gravity.
• Weeding is not necessary with growing upside down tomatoes.Because they are cultivated in containers, there are many other benefits that you could achieve. Weeding, dealing with pests, and requiring good soil are no longer big problems you have to worry about.
• Pests find it difficult to climb up to tomatoes grown upside down.Upside down tomatoes should be sufficiently spaces to avoid the spread of disease.
So apparently this is like a superfood and nontoxic bug killer. Reading the Amazon reviews was very compelling! #health #pesticides #diatomaceousearth #healthyliving #healthyhome
This recipe makes two pies but you could also combine it into one deep dish pie instead. You can use premade crusts like I did or make your own, just don’t bake the crust first. I’ll make this again at Christmas with my own crust recipe…I don’t think I’ve shared that here on the blog either!
There are countless numbers of ant species. For better or worse, they have adapted to living among humans and taking what they can to survive. Sometimes, their colonies become too large and have to be dealt with accordingly. When not living outdoors, ants love to nest in dry or decaying wood but will settle for Styrofoam or fiberglass insulation.
The Argentine Ant is common to rural and urban areas alike. They are identifiable by their tiny size (1/16" long) and brown color. They are the most common ant species in California and they will bite! They are true survivors and will live in and feed on garbage, dead animals or even toothpaste. Due to their unsavory habits, they often come in contact with disease and can be quite dangerous. They will eat just about anything we do and they thrive in dark, moist kitchen and bathroom areas.
The Carpenter Ant is named for his fine skill in tearing wood and crafting a nice nest for the next generation. They cause the most damage in mountainous and forested regions along the central and northern coastlines of California. They are generally larger than other ants and can range from red to black. They cannot sting, but will use their powerful jaws to bite. Keep an eye out for these ants by looking for their winged scouts and discarded wood particles (sometimes called "frass"). It is vital to determine the location of these nests because they can cause untold damage. Examine any frass for clues as to where they have been practicing their craft. Keep in mind that these ants prefer to feed on the honey dew of certain varieties of aphids and can quickly overwhelm and destroy these plants.
The Field Ant is relatively large at a quarter of an inch. They enjoy the sunny outdoors, but they will eat a cooling pie from a windowsill. These ants are the ones that we have all seen in sidewalk cracks.
The Fire Ant is among the most insidious of all insect species. They have a potent bite that burns like salsa in the eyes! They are generally 1/8" long and can be identified by their light red bodies and brown bodies. They build their nests outside in small mounds or inside in anything from wood to drywall. They will eat anything. They have an unhealthy fascination will electricity and their ignorance of proper safety procedures leads them to cause expensive damage to electrical equipment. We use this shocking tendency to draw ants into an isolation chamber by using a solar panel to generate a small, but fascinating current in the Solar Ant Charmer. Also, boric acid is toxic to ants, but it doesn't work immediately.
The Odorous House Ant is a stinky little pest. They are reportedly identifiable by a distinct odor that is released when they are crushed. This odor supposedly resembles that of rotten coconuts, so if you want to be sure, allow some coconuts to rot and compare the smells. These ants have a preference for sweets and live in the same places as most other ants.
The Pavement Ant is partial to living in and around cement. They are less than 1/8th" in length and range from brown to black. These ants will eat almost anything and are thus a good target for baits.
The Pharaoh Ant is a tiny (less than 1/16") critter and is rumored to have come here all the way from Egypt. They have a wasp-like look to them and a surly attitude that reminds us that they were annoying the ancient Egyptians thousands of years ago. They prefer the indoors and warm areas. These ants are particularly tricky to control because any disturbance of the nest causes them to panic and execute an evacuation plan that would make OSHA proud. They will disperse and readily form a new colony in a new and undoubtedly more inconvenient spot. Pay specific attention to leaving the nest itself undisturbed. Baits work very well this ant, while contact pesticides are usually useless.
The Thief Ant is an unsavory character known for stealing the food supply and nests of other colonies. These sneaky guys are among the smallest ants found. When they manage to raid another nest, they will return the food to their ground and wooden dwellings. They are often found scavenging among dead animal carcasses and have even found themselves involved in the lifecycle of a tapeworm species. They are picky eaters and often won't eat a large enough portion to be poisoned with baits.
The Velvety Tree Ant has a soft, velvety abdomen and a red thorax. These stylish cousins are much larger at 3/8" long and prefer to nest in trees. These ants are reputed to share the rotten coconut smell of the Odorous House ant. They prefer sweets but have been known to eat dead animals and dead insects. Beware, these ants will inflict a painful bite.
The Yellow Ant is about 1/8" long and emits a citronella odor when crushed. These ants love moisture and hate daylight, almost like vampire ants. They will seek out rotting wood and will ignore healthy wood altogether. These ants are particularly picky eaters, with a taste for other insects but not for sweets.
Homemaking Blogs Top 100 List
Want to make cleaning and organizing your home easier? Or just wish managing your home could be fun? Reading homemaking blogs can be your one-stop-shop for reliable information and quality resources about homemaking. So we bring to you the Best 100 Homemaking blogs which will help you to learn organizing, scheduling, cooking, fixing, budgeting, menu-planning and to manage your home without losing your mind! Here is the list : https://blog.feedspot.com/homemaking_blogs/
Cockroaches are hearty pests, they have existed in different forms for millions of years and have become adept at the art of survival. They have continually adapted to most chemical treatments, leaving dangerous chemical residue that harms humans and pets. Cockroaches are anything but clean, they routinely dig through garbage and any other waste imaginable. Then they crawl all over countertops, foodstuffs and kitchenware. Roach droppings and bodies have been reported to act as asthmatic triggers that increase the intensity and frequency of asthma problems. Baits tend to work well with these species because they cannibalize the poisoned bodies of their fallen comrades. An often overlooked solution is to sprinkle infested areas with diatomaceous earth (DE). DE is often used in pool filters, it consists of fossilized marine remains that forms a fine talc-like powder. This substance is completely inert and will not pose any threat to people or animals. DE has an almost microscopic crystalline structure that will perforate and kill the soft bodied roaches. Roaches cannot adapt to this material because it physically harms the abdomen of the roach. As with other pests, it is important to make sure that window and door frames are sealed and all structural cracks are filled in. Make sure to eliminate damp areas, leaks and spills as well as food sources to limit their access to the necessary food and water. In order to use a more specific roach treatment, it is recommended that you place sticky traps in order to allow for more a positive identification of species.
Just like people, roses are susceptible to rose diseases and various other health problems. Many of the problems that come with having roses are relatively easy to take care of, but it is always better to stop them all together rather than having to cure them later. Here are some of the ways that you can prevent rose diseases from reaching your roses.
The easiest way to prevent rose diseases from inhabiting your roses is to buy roses that are low maintenance like shrubs and landscape roses.
Planting your roses properly in areas that have a lot of sun(at least 6 hours in the morning), air circulation and good compost for faster draining can prevent many problems later.
Keeping different types of flowers and plants in with your roses will help to provide your roses with a better and more balanced ecosystem to live in.
Epsom salt is found to be effective for roses. It will provide the enrichment to your soil, which in turn will cause your rose bush to thrive and naturally be healthy.
Fertilizing your plants in the proper manner. Roses need their food too!
Watering your roses correctly and in the morning is a good way to keep fungal diseases from hitting your roses.
A two inch layer of mulch at the base of your roses is a good way to keep soil born diseases at bay.
If you want to produce the best compost you just need to follow a few tips and your garden will thank you.
Our compost bin is plastic and kind of looks like an upside down garbage can but you can construct your own compost bin with a few stakes and chicken wire. I would suggest you make it about 3 feet square for the best air circulation. That seems to be just the right size for everything to work right.
What’s the best or most balanced mixture for your compost bin, for getting the best results in the shortest time frame.
The green waste is usually high in nitrogen. It’s the green waste that activates the heat process in your compost. Some heat generating yard waste is better at heating, like fresh young weeds that haven’t gone to seed yet. Be sure you keep those grass trimmings as they work well too. We also use our kitchen waste, fruit, vegetable, coffee grounds. We don’t drink much tea but you can use the tea leaves as well, even the bag.
The brown waste is usually high in carbon. Brown waste includes leaves that fall in autumn, all those dead flowers, plants and weeds. You can also use those cardboard tubes from Christmas wrapping paper, foil wrap, etc. If you use straw to cover flower beds or strawberries you can recycle that through your compost bin when you’re done with it.
We have grocery bags that are made from recycled cloth but every once in a while we will shop somewhere they give us paper bags, if they don’t have a lot of colour or ink we put them straight in the compost bin, well I rip them up to make the pieces break down faster. We also use our egg shell in the compost bin but I also use them to keep slugs out of my garden. Don’t forget the paper towels you use they can go in as well.
Your compost bin works best when it has a good flow of air and will NOT stink like some compost bins do, those without a good air supply as it take more bacteria when the air flow is not enough.
Each time you turn your compost pile it will get a new supply of air and will loosen the compost for better air circulation.
We keep our compost bin slightly damp but not too wet. Kind of like a sponge you just squeezed the water from, it’s just damp.
Our compost bin has a lid on it that helps to keep a lot of the moisture from the green waste from evaporating so we don’t need to use water much at all, but we keep a close watch on it in the hot dry weather.
We started our composting without adding any extra soil to help jump start the process but I have heard that it’s beneficial at the start so feel free to add some top soil between the layers of compost. A small amount of garden soil between each layer will introduce the bacteria needed to start the compost cycle. The soil that was still attached to plants we pulled and added to the compost bin was enough for us to have great results.
How To Bring Back Butterflies: Make Vineyards Sustainable
An unintended but very welcome (and very pretty!) side effect of relying less heavily on pesticides.
Just about all plants or flowers can adapt and grow indoor very well. All they really need is more or less to have the same elements as outdoor plants and flowers demand. These conditions are simple. Air flow must be present and adequate, an area where the sun can shine on them, optimum supply of h2o, and good flower or plant food (fertilizer).
Obey these simple rules included below, that would for sure make your indoor plants and flowers develop healthier and add beauty to your indoor living space.
The fact is that your NORMAL indoor plants or flowers will always be growing towards the sunlight naturally, no matter how many times you repositioned them. This is normal as the sun is the main source of their nutrition. Your plants or flowering plants will require a minimum of 2 hrs of sun rays per day. Try moving them near a window if you know that they are not getting the minimum sunlight required. If you do not have a place where you can have sufficient sunlight, and cannot move the plants, then maybe purchasing a couple of indoor gardening lights. Do NOT implement this with ordinary lights. You can purchase indoor growing lights anywhere today, and they will provide enough of the “ultraviolet light” to nourish the plants and flowers.
You should supply an adequate and regular water intake for your plants. But be certain that you DO NOT OVER WATER the plants or flowers. A big number of plants or flowers die because of, #1: not enough water or, #2: to much water. This will cause them to die most likely more often than they do from any other reasons. If you have to go away for a while, have someone come over and water your plants and flowers instead of watering a lot before and after.
Here’s a easy tip that you can try to find out if your plants and flowers need more or less water. Try poking the ground with a poking device. If the stick penetrates the ground with ease, then the soil is at the right dampness, if not just give them more water.
Fertilizers are also really important when it comes time to feed your plants or flowers. The guideline here is to add a scoop or so of indoor plant fertilizer, once every 2 weeks (or as directed on the directions), to your plant or flower containers. A good natural way to feed instead of spending money on fertilizer is to save your “used tea remains” as they are also a very good supply of nutrition for your plants and flowers.
We provide you with timely tips, strategies and much more to help improve and realize a better home for you and your family. For more information please visit our gardening & pest control website.
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